I'm just dropping a comment to say thank you for taking in a dog that came from a bad home and actually working with them to rehabilitate them instead of throwing them away again when they turn out to have problems from their history. Especially taking the extra time and resources needed to rehabilitate a dog with a disability that interferes with most rehabilitation methods. On the advice side, maybe line wherever he sits with plastic, and put some old towels over it? That way the urine doesn't go onto the seat if it happens again.

I can understand you're trying to train him, but maybe he was caught off guard. You said he is pretty much deaf so maybe because one of his senses is dull he's more easily frightened or startled? One thing I know about animals is vibrations scare them. I'd still say ydi because you're not using positive reinforcement. Could you try not driving, or have someone else drive while you're training the dog? Like have the car in park and stuff like that. If he doesn't bark like that, then how about having your friend drive you around while you are calming the dog and training it.

Thanks for reading my posts through before commenting! I do have a waterproof cover on the seat. I just had to completely clean him off at the sitter's, and pull off the cover and stick it in the trunk (still made the car smell), which resulted in me being late for work. It was just bizarre that he'd be so frightened of something that's happened many times before. I think his brain must work differently in the car. He's a funny dog. Large dog + walk = everybody's pals, but large dog + car = barking at the top of his lungs.

#47, that has got to be the worse advice I've ever heard. Even after reading OP's post, you still don't understand? So, you want OP to not drive simply because of her dog's one mistake. You're right, bills don't have to be paid, she doesn't have a job, she doesn't even eat, so let's tell OP to not drive until her dog is trained. As for having the car in park, you most likely won't be parking in the middle of the road just to see if your dog doesn't bark.

Hmm. I would suggest a "thunder buddy" pet jacket- while they are usually used for pets that have anxiety triggered by storms, you could try putting it on him before the car ride. They work by using the compression to give a soothing quality. They also have sprays you can put on a patch on the jacket to help further. If he stays terrified of car rides, it might be a good idea to ask about low dose antianxiety medication, if that's something you can afford and are willing to consider. You could even try a low dose of Benadryl if he doesn't have any health problems that would contraindicated it- not sure of the exact dosage for a 75 pound dog, but my 20lb dog was played for a 25mg dose, so you could probably start at 12.5 mg and work up from there, if a vet thinks it'll be safe.

a VIBRATE-ONLY collar isn't inhumane...

I didn't know vibration was cruelty? oh f*ck are you telling me I have to get rid of my vibrator because I'm being cruel to myself?

There's a difference here, #60, you're choosing to use something vibrating on yourself, you're in control, you're doing it on an area that feels good when stimulated. Now imagine if every time you spoke a bit too loudly you got a sharp vibration around your neck.

I still don't see how it's cruel. vibrate collars don't hurt them. hell it didn't hurt me when I tried it and I don't have fur on my neck...that you know of.

also #62 before you get all butt hurt with your butthurtliness, no, none of my dogs have vibrate or shock collars. they have regular collars....except my big dog. she has a collar that says "friendly" because she's big and has a loud bark.

*Shock collars hurt like hell, buzz collars, nah.